More than just looks
Behind threading's unassuming front lies a flourishing industry and a market worth roughly $23 million. But how did this fuss-free eyebrow grooming method grow into what it is today?

WELL-COIFFED and impeccably-dressed, the youthful Indian lady could pass for any professional working in Singapore's central business district. But instead of typing away on a computer like most office workers, Ms Manjeet Kour's desk is a tufted leather chair decorated with bronze embellishments, and her client, someone waiting for their eyebrows to be whipped into shape.

Her office – a sleek salon called Bonita – shares the fifth floor of One Raffles Place with several upmarket skincare and aesthetic clinics. There, Scandinavian-style wood accents, warm lighting, and a faint, fruity scent wafting across the salon make for an atmosphere that matches up to her neighbours. But in place of state-of-the-art gadgets one might expect to see at some of these upmarket stores, Ms Manjeet's tool of the trade is a simple cotton thread.

When the 39-year-old's day begins at 9am, the shop is empty, save for the occasional one or two office workers squeezing in beauty treatments before their first meeting of the day. But this calm does not last.

Just before the clock strikes 12, a throng of customers begin streaming in. Before she knows it, the salon is full.

One Filipino customer is here to try an alternative to sugaring, a waxing technique used in her hometown that was her go-to eyebrow grooming method; another is a 16-year-old local student getting her eyebrows groomed for the very first time.

A number of men clad in office wear also walk in. For one of them, an Asian-Australian, Bonita is the place he visits to tidy his unkempt eyebrows.

As the latest music hits and releases softly play in the background, Ms Manjeet guides customers to the chairs one at a time.

Once seated, she applies talcum powder on their eyebrows to keep the skin beneath dry, and pulls the thread from a spool specially imported from India. Twisting one end around her manicured fingers and holding the other with her teeth, she deftly rolls it around the eyebrow, her head bobbing lightly as she moves the thread.

In less than 10 minutes and for $9, eyebrows are defined and given new life.

This age-old technique, known as threading, shapes brows by cleanly removing unwanted hairs.

Bonita is distinctly different from the more traditional threading salons in Little India, which are often accompanied by a faint smell of incense hanging in the air and traditional Hindi music playing in the background.

Yet, the technique used remains the same, and that is what binds modern salons like Bonita to where the threading industry first began: Little India.
Little India and Beyond
That was where Ms Manjeet started out as a beautician in 1998 after moving to Singapore from India, and where she later met Bonita's other owner, Ms Uppkar Kaur, 32, in 2006.

Little India was also the go-to enclave back then for people who wanted to thread their eyebrows.

The growing demand for this efficient, convenient, and cheap eyebrow grooming method was evident – parlours providing threading services just kept popping up in the area. Today, around the Little India MRT station alone, there are close to 50 of such parlours.
The (eyebrow threading) market is estimated to be worth roughly $23 million a year too.
The variety is endless too: There are petite, dimly-lit salons on the upper levels of shophouses shared with tailoring boutiques, or along less crowded lanes. Some have bright blue or even purple walls lined with all manners of bits and bobs – like gem-studded bangles and sari tops – for sale to earn some extra income. Still others are bigger salons, such as Gooday Beautie Parlour along Serangoon Road.

Very few of these salons offer only threading. But for most, who also provide other services, such as facials and waxing, threading is also a mainstay.

Just 25 years ago, though, there were only four or five of such salons, according to Ms Sivarani Rajangam, who started the Indian beauty chain Rupini's at Little India in 1994. In recent years, more parlours have also moved beyond Little India and into other neighbourhoods, such as Clementi and Tampines, to meet this growing demand for threading services islandwide.

The market is estimated to be worth roughly $23 million a year too.

Some experts believe the industry's low barrier to entry, together with its soaring popularity and the average household's increasing purchasing power, could mean a high potential for profit for businesses.

For Rupini's, which has become one of the threading industry's powerhouses, profits from threading alone in 2016 made up half of the chain's $3 million revenue. That is almost triple its initial profit from 1994. According to media reports, homegrown beauty brand Spa Esprit Group – owner of the industry's other powerhouse, Browhaus – had an annual turnover of $90 million in 2015. The group, which also operates in overseas markets, like Hong Kong and the United States, did not reply to queries before press time.

This burgeoning business signified a larger phenomenon: the obsession with eyebrows was taking Singaporeans – and their wallets – by storm.

Coveting either British model Cara Delevingne's signature bold and bushy brows or the straight brows of Korean celebrities, many are taking to eyebrow make-up or semi-permanent eyebrow embroidery to get round drawing their eyebrows every day.
Embroidery is where fine blades or needles are used to implant semi-permanent ink pigment beneath the skin's surface, filling in the sparse areas of a person's eyebrows. This can last for up to two years, much longer than eyebrows groomed by shaving, waxing, or threading, which lasts around four to six weeks.

The only catch is the price – the procedure costs a few hundred dollars, and in some salons, thousands. Meanwhile, threading can cost anywhere between $5 and $15.

It is this affordability that attracts people, especially students, to threading.

English undergraduate Audrey Leong, for instance, threads her eyebrows at Rupini's once every one to two months, but believes embroidery is out of her budget as a student.

"I have no financial stability right now to spend a thousand dollars on embroidery for just 10cm of my face," said the 22-year-old, who is a first-year student at Nanyang Technological University (NTU). "But $10 every once in awhile or so is something I can still manage as a student."

According to several beauticians, though, embroidery and threading have completely different target markets. The former caters to people who have sparse eyebrows. Threading, on the other hand, is more for people who are born with hairier eyebrows.

One such customer, Ms Chrystal Yang, a marketing manager at a local hospitality company, visits Rupini's every month. "Since your eyebrows frame your face, that's the first thing people will notice," said the 31-year-old. "I have very thick eyebrows. If I don't groom it, it starts to look extremely unkempt."

And in the absence of fancy waxing gels and embroidery's pricey machinery, it is no wonder threading costs a fraction of the price of other methods. Yet, could its simplicity be its strength? "Threading totally removes the hair from the roots so it doesn't grow back so quickly. Unlike shaving, for example, it allows your hair to grow back normally instead of developing into thicker hair," said Ms Wendy Lee, director of local beauty school SingTrain Academy, which offers courses on threading and eyebrow embroidery, among other beauty and massage therapy courses.

"And it's not dangerous at all – no chemicals, no products are involved, just a cotton thread," she said.
Rising Popularity
As eyebrows quickly became one of the most talked-about features of the face, beauty parlours here also noticed an increase in clients opting for threading services – and all from different walks of life: from expats, civil servants, and Chinese tourists, to young students coming straight from school.

This is no longer limited to only women too.

Where in the past customers were almost always women, parlours say men now make up around 30 to 40 per cent of their clientele.

It makes sense as Singapore becomes increasingly influenced by fashion and beauty trends from around the world, said Ms Cindy Tien, a senior consultant and corporate trainer at local personal branding company Imageworks. Many Korean stars, for instance, are trendily-dressed, use make-up, and get their eyebrows groomed. All these influences have caused people, including men, to care more about their appearance and personal grooming habits, she said.

And for her male clients who want to look sharper, one eyebrow grooming method Ms Tien recommends is threading. "Grooming of the brows is not uncommon, and it's in no way feminine since all it does is neaten the area and remove stray hairs," she added. "Even my husband noticed that when his brows are neater after threading, he looked smarter and felt more confident."

Similarly, for most men who thread their eyebrows, like Mr Stephen Ng, threading is more about personal grooming than about being vain.

The 24-year-old account manager, who is a regular at Browhaus, said: "When your hair gets too long, you need to cut it. It's the same. When your eyebrows get too messy, it's time to book a threading appointment. It's just part of wanting to look better."
Besides an increase in male customers, Indian beauty parlours said they have noticed more Chinese, Malays, and Caucasians stepping in for threading too. Before, most of their threading customers were Indians.

This was the case at Rupini's as well, said the chain's founder Sivarani Rajangam. Now, only two out of every 10 customers are Indian.

"I don't know how we became super popular among the Chinese and other races, but I'm glad," she added. "I started Rupini's because I wanted to do something for the community. For me, that meant bringing niche beauty services to the masses."

Getting Down to Business
Before founding Bonita, Ms Uppkar Kaur, one of the parlour's two founders, already had dreams of opening her own salon. For years, customers, who know her as Neeru, had asked and even encouraged her to set out on her own.

When she finally founded Bonita six years ago with the parlour's other owner, Ms Manjeet Kour, they knew it would be difficult, even with the support of loyal customers – customers they saw as close friends, or even family – that they had amassed at their previous workplaces. But their rough start still took them by surprise.

For months, they could hardly breakeven, let alone earn profits. "There was a time when we did not even get a salary," said Ms Uppkar. "We were just surviving with the savings we had. It was that bad."

But before long, business began booming, with each year's revenue rising between 10 and 20 per cent. Last year, the two opened Bonita's other outlet in One Raffles Place.

Beauty parlours like Bonita show the hidden potential within the threading industry. With its low costs and high demand among people interested in grooming their eyebrows, the threading business – although niche – can be profitable too, said Associate Professor Elison Lim of the Nanyang Business School at NTU.

Furthermore, households are spending more and more on personal grooming establishments, like threading shops, according to data collected by the Department of Statistics (Singstat).

According to its latest available data on household expenditure, which was released in 2014, monthly expenditure on these establishments increased by more than twofold to $31.70 on average a month between 2012 and 2013, from $13.10 a decade before. This parallels the sharp increase in total monthly household spending through the years, from $3,351.90 to $4,724.50 in the same time frame.

Likewise, according to data reported by Singstat, revenue from the personal services industry – which threading establishments would fall under if documented, said Prof Lim – has been on a steady upsurge the past two decades, rising by almost threefold to $2.85 billion in 2017, from $0.80 billion in 2000.

This correlates with the development of the economy and economic growth, added Prof Lim.

"With more spending power, people have more money to spend on grooming and managing their appearance," she said. "And our society's definitely becoming more image-conscious."

Nonetheless, Mr Jester Perez, a market research director at a global property development firm who specialises in analysing market trends valuations, said there are still some dangers in investing time and money in a threading business.
A single unit along Serangoon Road in the middle of Little India can cost between $6,000 and $20,000. Other neighbourhoods are not exempt from these exorbitant prices either. In places like Clementi or Tampines, rental can cost between $3,000 and $12,000.
For one, the industry's low barriers to entry is a double-edged sword, he said. While that means anyone can pick up the skill, start the business, and follow the successes of Bonita; it also means that competition in the industry could be brutal. This has shown itself in places like Little India, where most shops are forced to price threading at $5 per session or they might lose customers.

In the long term, Mr Perez believes this low cost and low barrier to entry is also what makes the business a risky investment idea. "It may be better as a short-term investment strategy," he said. "Once business owners experience growth and market share, and as enterprise value increases, they should start thinking of selling before even more competitors get into it."

For another, rental can be a killer for some.

A single unit along Serangoon Road in the middle of Little India can cost between $6,000 and $20,000. Other neighbourhoods are not exempt from these exorbitant prices either. In places like Clementi or Tampines, rental can cost between $3,000 and $12,000.

This is why people with deep pockets or more established names will always last longer, like with most things, said Ms Genevieve Tan, 56, administrator of V Mystique, a beauty parlour along Serangoon Road.

She added that since the beauty parlour opened last June, they saw three other threading shops along that stretch of the road close down.

"But we're using social media to market our brand, and so far, we have some regular customers. I think we will do okay," she said.
Expanding Market
Even with its challenges, the business' potential for profit – as well as threading's rising popularity islandwide – has many enterprising spirits looking to get a slice of the business pie. In recent years, a plethora of parlours moved beyond Little India, establishing themselves in other neighbourhoods and even creating newer threading hotspots across the island
One such example is Kushi's Beauty & Bridal Services. When it opened its first outlet in Yew Tee in 2007, the parlour's sales and marketing manager Brintha Dass, recalls the area being a ghost town. Besides the train station and a slight two-level building that includes a food court, some small shops, and a wet market, there was nothing in the area, least of all an Indian beauty parlour.

Despite its emptiness, they opened the parlour there with hopes of being trailblazers in the area after noticing a demand for eyebrow threading services in not just Little India, but in the heartlands too. "Not everyone lives near Little India," explained the 26-year-old. "At places like Yew Tee, customers can just go downstairs and get their eyebrows done. They don't have to specifically travel for an hour for a five-minute service."

She added: "As the only Indian beauty service in the area, competition is also the least of our worries."

It was for these exact reasons they opened their second branch at Hougang three years later.

Today, both parlours get about 60 customers a day from various backgrounds, from students and 80-year-old grandmothers of all races, to middle-aged men and Mediacorp artists. Some of them can even remember the off-days of their favourite threaders.

Ms Brintha added: "Usually the stereotype is that threading is for Indians and Chinese prefer shaving. We wanted to break the racial line and show that threading isn't just for Indians. And we did just that."

Likewise, when Ms Harvinder Kaur first opened the traditional beauty parlour Rimpy Beauty Art – named after her nickname among friends, Rimpy – in Clementi over 20 years ago, the market for eyebrow threading there was non-existent. But instead of meeting demand for eyebrow threading in Clementi, Ms Harvinder believes they created the demand.

"We're the original threading place in Clementi, the first one here," said the 46-year-old. "We had to create the demand for threading. It was difficult, but we did it."

Two decades on, the parlour gets about 50 customers a day. During weekends, they even get enough customers to cover the week's expenses, and most of these customers are Chinese, she added.

Ten other eyebrow grooming shops have popped up around Rimpy Beauty Art and Clementi MRT station in hopes of cashing in on this growing demand for eyebrow grooming services in the area.

Unlike Rimpy Beauty Art, though, most of these parlours are run by Chinese owners. Although they offer threading services, it is not their business' mainstay. Instead, their more popular services include eyebrow embroidery.

Feeling the Pinch
While this movement into the heartlands has benefited most customers, some smaller parlours in Little India have felt its pinch.

In the past, the queue of customers would snake out of her shop in a corner of Little India MRT station, said Ms Jessyca Frans, who opened Tabernacle Beauty Services in 2006. Seventy per cent of her profits then came from threading. "But in 2016, more and more threading salons popped up at other neighbourhoods," she said. "That was when customers stopped travelling down to Little India as much for threading."

As a result, it became hard to make a profit on top of covering high rental costs, which Ms Jessyca declined to disclose. The past two years have been especially tough, she added. "We were working so hard, but we earned nothing after paying the rental," she said.

Ms Jessyca eventually shut her business down in February to work as a freelance beautician from her home in Punggol instead. "Some of my customers who live nearby are so happy because it's nearer for them, but for others who live further away, I told them to find another shop closer to them," she said.

Most of these customers were her regulars for years, returning to her for threading services since she first opened her shop in Little India. "That's why I know they'll support me even after I close down here," said Ms Jessyca. "I don't know how many will continue to come to me, but I know they will."

"When you build a company like a child, of course it's painful to close it. But I won't stop the job. If I had to, I'd be devastated because this is what I love to do."

And at the end of the day, this passion is what drives many other threaders too – a passion that persists even in the face of challenges.
As the day comes to a close, One Raffles Place quietens with shops closing and people heading home from a long day of work.

By 7.30pm, the fifth floor is quiet and almost pitch dark. Most shops have closed for the day and there is not a soul in sight. But behind the escalator, near the corner of the mall, Bonita remains brightly lit with a few customers waiting to get their eyebrows threaded.

Despite the long hours and countless challenges – from starting a business as young beauticians to the tumultuous journey leading up to the opening of this outlet – to Bonita's founders Manjeet Kour and Uppkar Kaur, it was all worth it. Bonita is thriving, they have a trusty team of eight other beauticians, and they are doing what they love.

"Bonita is like my baby," said Ms Uppkar. "Regardless of whatever challenges, I'm not going to just give up and let it go just like that. I will fight to the end to make us survive."
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